[slopmaster420]

Hello all,

The other day I was doing a little recreational driving and hit a bump at 65-70mph. A few minutes later while I was idling in a parking lot, I noticed the RPMs started bouncing between 600 and 1200 randomly. Originally I thought I must have cracked something and that it was a vacuum leak as there was some significant screeching and whining coming from the engine. But I'm not sure anymore.

I replaced the crankcase ventilation breather hose (which was a bitch) since the OBD II scanner I had gave me code P2ECC and the app I used (infocar) said it was related to the ccv hose connection sensor. I now know that app is horseshit and that the code is really related to the alternator. But even with that, I noticed in some maintenance records from 7 months ago that the 2ECC code was present then, so I don't believe that could be related to my current issue. I bought a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks and I found none, it was able to hold pressure with the smoke machine turned off.

Now, my latest hypothesis is that it could stem from battery? I don't know anymore. I checked voltage and it came in at 11.9v, not bad for a 14 year old battery though.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
Car is a 2011 BMW 328i xDrive
N51b30a SULEV engine

[TriumphTim]

Actually 11.9v is bad for a 12v battery fyi...

I find these cars are sensitive to batteries, so I would at least load test it if not replace it. Local car parts places can usually do it for free I think or I use a HF load tester for like $20.

Check to see if alternator is charging too at this point... good luck!!

A 12V battery is fully charged at \(12.6\) to \(12.8\) volts (resting voltage) and begins to discharge from there. A battery reading below \(12.4\) volts is considered partially discharged, while anything below \(12.0\) volts means it's discharged and needs immediate recharging to avoid damage

[slopmaster420]

Originally Posted by TriumphTim

Actually 11.9v is bad for a 12v battery fyi...

I find these cars are sensitive to batteries, so I would at least load test it if not replace it. Local car parts places can usually do it for free I think or I use a HF load tester for like $20.

Check to see if alternator is charging too at this point... good luck!!

A 12V battery is fully charged at \(12.6\) to \(12.8\) volts (resting voltage) and begins to discharge from there. A battery reading below \(12.4\) volts is considered partially discharged, while anything below \(12.0\) volts means it's discharged and needs immediate recharging to avoid damage

Yeah getting it replaced ASAP.
Other news:
I took it for a test drive the other day (about 2000ft) and I couldn't get it past 30mph with my MPG guage was hard stuck as low as possible. Scanned codes again after and didn't get any new ones, just that same 2ECC code.

[TriumphTim]

Looks like 2ECC deals with the alternator or charging system from a quick google search.

The screeching and whining could have been the alternator bearing/shaft/pulley failing.

I would definitely check the alternator charging status and whether the alternator turns roughly or has play.

It appears this issue can cause limp mode too.

Are you able to remove the accessory belt and check the alternator?

[slopmaster420]

Originally Posted by TriumphTim

Looks like 2ECC deals with the alternator or charging system from a quick google search.

The screeching and whining could have been the alternator bearing/shaft/pulley failing.

I would definitely check the alternator charging status and whether the alternator turns roughly or has play.

It appears this issue can cause limp mode too.

Are you able to remove the accessory belt and check the alternator?

Had it towed to a mechanic that is good with European cars and he believes it could be VANOS solenoids but I still plan to replace battery anyways. It measured at 11.6v as it was going on the tow truck.

[slopmaster420]

Yeah its a wrap.
Just got the quote from my mechanic. $4927 to replace the timing chain. She's going straight to the junk yard.

Heres the notes I was sent:
Faults Stored for VANOS
Recommend Replacing Both VANOS
Solenoids to Start.

VANOS faults are clear after replacing solenoids.

The engine runs rough at idle. Checked Engine Timing Values.
Specified Exhaust Value -2.25 degrees Actual Value -115 degrees.
Specified Intake Value -1.12 degrees
Actual Value 58.1 degrees.
Vehicle Engine Timing is out of Range. Recommend Replacing All Timing Chain & Oil Pump Chain Components.

Engine Oil has a slight shimmer to it from metal debris. Debris is most likely caused by Timing Chain Failure. Could be damage to internal Engine Bearings. Recommend Inspecting Main Bearings When Oil Pan is Removed for Timing Chain Replacement

[TriumphTim]

That sucks, was the VANOS recall done on that car?

[slopmaster420]

Originally Posted by TriumphTim

That sucks, was the VANOS recall done on that car?

No, I was planning to get it done in December. Decided it was actually cheaper to get it repaired than to get a new car so I'm sticking with her for now.