[FiveStarMotors]

Hey guys!

So I bought a 328i.

Long story short, It was in a front end collision and airbags from the side curtains (passenger side) along with the driver side airbag deployed.

The car was hit on the front driver side.

The car now wont start so we started with the 2 obvious things (from what I know) the starter and the red terminal cable where it has that inertia switch type thing... Those were both replaced and nothing. Still no crank no start.

When we put direct power to the starter it will crank over but seems like im getting no fuel because the car just cranks over but does NOT start.

Someone is telling me that it's the Pyro fuse which I have someone going to pick up now from the dealer to see if thats the issue. I guess what Im trying to do is get some more tips from you guys to see if maybe anyone else has had this issue and It was something other than these things im thinking it is.

another question is when I do install the new power distribution box (new from the dealer) does that have to be programmed to the new battery I bought for the bmw?

Thank you In advance for any help that comes from this post.

[e90yyc]

First tip would be to get equipped to scan the car for codes. Without this ability you are making your job much harder than it needs to be. A code reader won’t necessarily tell you everything, but it is essential nonetheless.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by FiveStarMotors

... 328i [2011?] It was in a front end collision and airbags from the side curtains (passenger side) along with the driver side airbag deployed. The car now wont start so we started with the 2 obvious things (from what I know) the starter and the red terminal cable where it has that inertia switch type thing [BST -- Battery Safety Terminal?]... Those were both replaced and nothing. Still no crank no start. When we put direct power to the starter it will crank over but seems like im getting no fuel because the car just cranks over but does NOT start... another question is when I do install the new power distribution box (new from the dealer) does that have to be programmed to the new battery I bought for the bmw?...

Rather than $pend $$$ throwing parts, I would suggest DIAGNOSIS first. Minimum Requirement: $10 Multimeter:
1) What is Battery Voltage, measured at battery posts in boot?
2) What is Voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood?
If you have 12.0V or more at Battery Posts, but Near-Zero V at Jumpstart Terminals, the BST is likely blown.

I don't know WHY you would replace the Rear Power Distribution Panel (RPDP) on top of the battery. The BST is NOT included with the RPDP. You would NOT have to "Code" or register anything, regardless of changing the battery, RPDP, or BST. The Starter will Crank IF there is voltage to the Jumpstart Terminal, via the BST. The engine will fire, regardless of Battery Registration or Battery Capacity/Type "Coding". If you have "NO Crank" issue, or "Crank, NO Start" issue, you will make the job a LOT easier if you have INPA, ISTA or ProTool or other BMW Software.

INPA (BMW Standard Tools) will show you status of all components in MRS (Multiple Restraint System), Seat Belts & Airbags, as well as BST. It will also show you status of CAS as far as 'NO Crank' issue, & All DME/ Engine Module faults.

NEED:
1) Last-7 Characters of VIN;
2) Voltage at Battery Posts;
3) Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood.
4) Make/Model of any Scan Tool Available & all fault codes read with that (IF available).

We can then suggest NEXT Steps,
George

[FiveStarMotors]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Rather than $pend $$$ throwing parts, I would suggest DIAGNOSIS first. Minimum Requirement: $10 Multimeter:
1) What is Battery Voltage, measured at battery posts in boot?
2) What is Voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood?
If you have 12.0V or more at Battery Posts, but Near-Zero V at Jumpstart Terminals, the BST is likely blown.

I don't know WHY you would replace the Rear Power Distribution Panel (RPDP) on top of the battery. The BST is NOT included with the RPDP. You would NOT have to "Code" or register anything, regardless of changing the battery, RPDP, or BST. The Starter will Crank IF there is voltage to the Jumpstart Terminal, via the BST. The engine will fire, regardless of Battery Registration or Battery Capacity/Type "Coding". If you have "NO Crank" issue, or "Crank, NO Start" issue, you will make the job a LOT easier if you have INPA, ISTA or ProTool or other BMW Software.

INPA (BMW Standard Tools) will show you status of all components in MRS (Multiple Restraint System), Seat Belts & Airbags, as well as BST. It will also show you status of CAS as far as 'NO Crank' issue, & All DME/ Engine Module faults.

NEED:
1) Last-7 Characters of VIN;
2) Voltage at Battery Posts;
3) Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood.
4) Make/Model of any Scan Tool Available & all fault codes read with that (IF available).

We can then suggest NEXT Steps,
George

Hey there thanks so much for your response.

https://usait.x431.com/Home/Report/r...ype/X2/l/en-us

These are the codes we are getting.

VIN- nn07351
12v
12v
x431 (12.2v)

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by FiveStarMotors

...
VIN- nn07351
12v
12v
x431 (12.2v)

First thing we need to know:
Are you trying to evaluate the car to determine feasibility of repair to get it back on road, or simply trying to assess status of components for parting out?

NO Crank issue is due to CAS Module. You don't supply any Fault Codes, but I assume you have the following Fault Codes in CAS Module Memory: A0B0, A0B2, A0B3, A0B4, A0B5.

Start with A0B2: CAS: Supply, Terminal 30E/30L; that means there is NO power supply to CAS from one or both CAS Voltage Supply Fuses:
1) F55 (5A), probably OK; that's the "30E" Electronics fuse;
2) F36 (40A), probably bad; that's the 30L Load fuse;
BOTH of those fuses are on JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel, beneath Glovebox. I will attach CAS supply SSP & Ground/ Fuse Locations to NEXT Post.

Rather than waste fuses, test for short to ground on output side of fuse socket, & if Ohms in relation to Chassis Ground is LESS than .3 Ohm the 40A fuse will blow (12/40 = .3)

The A0B0: Brake Lights implausible, Code indicates that NO signal from Brake Light Switch is received with ignition ON & foot on Brake. That MAY be due to lack of voltage supply (F36), or it may be due to an issue with Brake Light Circuit. IF a CAS Fuse is bad, but replacing it does NOT result in Starter Cranking, Clear CAS Fault Codes & Re-Scan AFTER attempting START. Let us know what CAS Codes remain (actual codes) & we'll suggest Next Steps.

The Bus errors probably prevent Fuel Pump operation. You should HEAR fuel pump prime when vehicle is unlocked, or door opened, IF CAS operating properly. That will likely be NEXT Step, after CAS issues solved.

You have other issues (MANY 'Message' faults, suggesting Bus Issues preventing communication between Modules. If there is now, or HAS BEEN, water in front footwells, please indicate, & provide current status.
George

[FiveStarMotors]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

First thing we need to know:
Are you trying to evaluate the car to determine feasibility of repair to get it back on road, or simply trying to assess status of components for parting out?

NO Crank issue is due to CAS Module. You don't supply any Fault Codes, but I assume you have the following Fault Codes in CAS Module Memory: A0B0, A0B2, A0B3, A0B4, A0B5.

Start with A0B2: CAS: Supply, Terminal 30E/30L; that means there is NO power supply to CAS from one or both CAS Voltage Supply Fuses:
1) F55 (5A), probably OK; that's the "30E" Electronics fuse;
2) F36 (40A), probably bad; that's the 30L Load fuse;
BOTH of those fuses are on JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel, beneath Glovebox. I will attach CAS supply SSP & Ground/ Fuse Locations to NEXT Post.

Rather than waste fuses, test for short to ground on output side of fuse socket, & if Ohms in relation to Chassis Ground is LESS than .3 Ohm the 40A fuse will blow (12/40 = .3)

The A0B0: Brake Lights implausible, Code indicates that NO signal from Brake Light Switch is received with ignition ON & foot on Brake. That MAY be due to lack of voltage supply (F36), or it may be due to an issue with Brake Light Circuit. IF a CAS Fuse is bad, but replacing it does NOT result in Starter Cranking, Clear CAS Fault Codes & Re-Scan AFTER attempting START. Let us know what CAS Codes remain (actual codes) & we'll suggest Next Steps.

The Bus errors probably prevent Fuel Pump operation. You should HEAR fuel pump prime when vehicle is unlocked, or door opened, IF CAS operating properly. That will likely be NEXT Step, after CAS [...]

Thank you for your help. I’m not mechanically inclined what so ever.

BUT from what it sounds like, you’re saying to start with the CAS module if I’m not mistaken.

Is it possible that the CAS module is throwing all of these codes simply because it is cutting off all electric supply to the vehicle? Again thanks so much for your help. I actually own a dealership and we bought this vehicle but literally just lost our lead mechanic due to some family issues on his end so we have about 10-12 cars sitting that need work but can’t find a decent mechanic in my area!

[gbalthrop]

ISTA ScreenPrints, related to prior post.
George

[FiveStarMotors]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

ISTA ScreenPrints, related to prior post.
George

My goodness, I definitely need to get a mechanic asap because I’m lost! Haha. I know those are fuses and such but as stated before I’m no mechanic. I wish I could PM you but I’m not allowed to on here since I’m new.

[FiveStarMotors]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

First thing we need to know:
Are you trying to evaluate the car to determine feasibility of repair to get it back on road, or simply trying to assess status of components for parting out?

NO Crank issue is due to CAS Module. You don't supply any Fault Codes, but I assume you have the following Fault Codes in CAS Module Memory: A0B0, A0B2, A0B3, A0B4, A0B5.

Start with A0B2: CAS: Supply, Terminal 30E/30L; that means there is NO power supply to CAS from one or both CAS Voltage Supply Fuses:
1) F55 (5A), probably OK; that's the "30E" Electronics fuse;
2) F36 (40A), probably bad; that's the 30L Load fuse;
BOTH of those fuses are on JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel, beneath Glovebox. I will attach CAS supply SSP & Ground/ Fuse Locations to NEXT Post.

Rather than waste fuses, test for short to ground on output side of fuse socket, & if Ohms in relation to Chassis Ground is LESS than .3 Ohm the 40A fuse will blow (12/40 = .3)

The A0B0: Brake Lights implausible, Code indicates that NO signal from Brake Light Switch is received with ignition ON & foot on Brake. That MAY be due to lack of voltage supply (F36), or it may be due to an issue with Brake Light Circuit. IF a CAS Fuse is bad, but replacing it does NOT result in Starter Cranking, Clear CAS Fault Codes & Re-Scan AFTER attempting START. Let us know what CAS Codes remain (actual codes) & we'll suggest Next Steps.

The Bus errors probably prevent Fuel Pump operation. You should HEAR fuel pump prime when vehicle is unlocked, or door opened, IF CAS operating properly. That will likely be NEXT Step, after CAS [...]

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by FiveStarMotors

... from what it sounds like, you’re saying to start with the CAS module if I’m not mistaken. [Yes, CAS Module activates the Starter, along with the Ignition & Accessory Relays. The A0B2 Fault Code suggests ONE of the two CAS Fuses, probably F36, is blown, or the wiring is damaged between the Fuse Panel & CAS.]

Is it possible that the CAS module is throwing all of these codes simply because it is cutting off all electric supply to the vehicle? [Better way of looking at it is CAS is supposed to ACTIVATE power supply to Starter Solenoid, Ignition Relay (KL15) & Accessory Relay (KL30G). So getting CAS to Activate those systems/ relays is FIRST Step.]

I actually own a dealership and we bought this vehicle but literally just lost our lead mechanic due to some family issues on his end so we have about 10-12 cars sitting that need work but can’t find a decent mechanic in my area!

Lots of competent "Mechanics" can remove & replace parts. What you need is a "Tech" who can follow a wiring diagram, see how a System (such as CAS activation of other systems) is supposed to work. That's a different skill set, & frankly the Weakness of most shops.

For a 2011 E90 328i BMW, ISTA Software (BMW dealer-level diagnostic Software) is the necessary tool. If your shop doesn't have that, IF you sell/service BMW's, that is the starting point. A Tech who understands how to use that software is the NEXT step. If you have ISTA, or access to its documents (wiring diagrams & component locations), you can test most things with a simple, $10 Multimeter.

I use INPA & ISTA to help DIY owners, free of charge, but I'm willing to help 'gratis' to get you started. Good Techs are hard to find. Don't underestimate their importance (or underpay them ;-) ISTA can actually "TEACH" a competent Tech, who understands the basics of electrical systems & general function of Electronic Modules.
George

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by FiveStarMotors

My goodness, I definitely need to get a mechanic asap because I’m lost! Haha. I know those are fuses and such
but as stated before I’m no mechanic. I wish I could PM you but I’m not allowed to on here since I’m new.

First Step is to simply pull Fuse F36 (diagram attached) and see if it's Blown:
1) Empty Glovebox;
2) Remove panel on far-side of Glovebox: Turn 2 rotating catches 90 degrees & pull out;
3) Use bright light to identify F36 at top of 2nd column of fuses; REMEMBER location, as there MUST be a good fuse there
to power CAS.
4) There SHOULD be a fuse extractor/puller just below the right edge of that fuse column, as shown in diagram. If NO Fuse
Extractor tool, you can use needle nose pliers.
5) Extract fuse & inspect; test electrically for continuity between Spades if NOT obviously blown.

Let us know what you find, & we'll take it a step-at-a-time. BTW, I'm an 80 y/o retired Lawyer (who has maintained his
own vehicles for 65 years ;-) so if I can do it, you can too. Just go slow & learn one new trick at a time.
George